• My First Impressions of the Georgian Language

    February 1, 2008

    The women I work with at the Georgian school chirp away in the interesting-sounding language that is Georgian. The unusual bold combinations of sounds evoke in me the characteristics of delight, a child complaining about not getting what they want and highly social chitchat. It sounds, to me, sweet at times, ugly at others and has a bouncing rhythm with a very distinct pattern of intonation. Most Georgians I met seemed to be the loveliest, happiest and helpful people I’d ever met.

    Tags: Georgialanguage

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  • Why Was Tbilisi Such a Beautiful City in Deep Winter?

    January 23, 2008

    When Sylvester, the Polish cyclist we met on Christmas Day in Batumi was explaining that conditions were difficult for local people in Georgia, coping with the cold midwinter, I thought: people in places with extreme weather conditions are obviously tough, live and learn to deal with it. I also remember thinking, is what we are doing, trying to cycle round the world equally difficult. In hindsight I suppose I was comparing the life of staying in one place to a life on the road which seemed a much more abstract concept.

    Tags: WinterSnowVagabondTbilisiTravelEnvironmentGeorgiaclimate-changeWWF

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  • Cold Nights and Notes from Sinop

    November 16, 2007

    I smell pretty terrible but I’ve got a fishing boat to sleep on tonight and I have just bought a new blanket which I hope will keep me warm. The nights have been uncomfortably chilly recently. Normally camping is a perfectly fine option for our sleeping arrangements but I’ve been dubious recently. I’ve been cold in my thin sleeping bag, no matter what combination of clothing and headwear that I adorn.

    Tags: HospitalityTrampingVagabondFishing boatSinopTurkeyCycle touringTravelCycling

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  • Cycling the Black Sea Coastline of Turkey in the Dark

    November 15, 2007

    The other day I was cycling towards Trabzon. We cycled in a number of dark, ominous looking tunnels. I’m cycling along, and then there it is, another black hole. My blood pressure rises, the hard shoulder thins and squeezes me off onto the road to share it with the multi-tonne trucks flying past, spraying me with muddy water. I check over my shoulder, hopefully I will make it through, before being chased by the next vehicle.

    Tags: TurkeyCoastlineKaradenizBlack seaCycling

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  • How I Ending Up Staying on the Turkish National Skin-Diving Instructors Fishing Boat

    November 13, 2007

    Although people are helpful and friendly, we often get looked at like we have three heads. I find it funny, and it’s completely harmless and utterly understandable. Two bearded English men turn up. One is wearing a fluorescent sock on his head and looks like a traffic cone; the other is wearing a ridiculous helmet with go-faster-stripes, and Klingon-esque air vents. Why would someone on a bicycle want to wear a helmet anyway?

    Tags: TurkeyBlack seaCycle touringCycling

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  • Looking East and West in Istanbul

    October 24, 2007

    I am in Kadikoy on the Anatolian side of Istanbul. We have reached Asia by bike! Today commences our third week in Istanbul. It is a multi-layered and vibrant place; enough to make one consider staying longer. However, the open road and adventure beckons once again. Crossing a whole continent is a significant milestone in the journey. Reflecting back, the feat seems equally absurd as it does real. I feel like I have lived a lifetime in the last 4 months.

    Tags: VagabondingIstanbulCycle touringTravel

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  • Getting Romania in View

    September 26, 2007

    We arrived in Romania a couple of days ago. We crossed the border and had a long night after realising we had crossed at the wrong place and had to return to the official crossing and cross there. It was dark and wet; lightning was striking around my feet and the officials were stroking their moustaches with intent. We have the addition of a new member of Ride Earth called Maria who we met in Budapest.

    Tags: RomaniaVagabondingCycle touringTravel

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  • What to do Whilst Waiting for Wheels to Arrive in Istanbul

    September 25, 2007

    Staying with a family on the way to Istanbul. We arrived in Istanbul after cycling along a dangerous highway, through 75km of suburban sprawl, which was a traumatic experience. We rewarded ourselves with a gourmet kebab that we couldn’t afford from a small place full of old men drinking, smoking and chatting. It had grown dark in the city after watching the sunset on the cycle in. We needed to get to our accommodation with a Couchsurfer, which was about 25km away, in Besiktas the other side of the Golden Horn.

    Tags: What to do in istanbulBackgammonWheelsIstanbulTravel

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  • Roaming Around in Romania

    July 25, 2007

    The first few days in Romania were mentally tough. We donned full wet weather gear and ventured onwards. It was overcast, drizzly, cold and miserable. The road away from the border was full of lorries, one after the other, spraying bucket-sized quantities of water over us. In the morning, we cooked a huge meal at a bus stop and washed pots in a puddle next to bemused-looking people waiting for a bus.

    Tags: Cycle tourRomaniaVagabond

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  • Getting Used to Cycling Every Day

    June 30, 2007

    It’s been six weeks now and I’m settling into the lifestyle. Each day is a mind-expanding experience. Creature comforts such as a shower and comfortable bed that I was once used to are now an occasional luxury. Each day is limited only by our own decisions in each moment, leading us off down pathways of chance meetings and opportunities. When I last blogged, we were still in Belgium. We have since travelled through France to Switzerland and stayed with our WWF contact in Geneva where we took the opportunity to rest for a couple of days.

    Tags: Swiss alpsCycle touringCycling

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  • Turn on, Tune In and Pedal On - Getting Used to Life on the Bike

    June 28, 2007

    Another day on the road. I drink a large coffee, pack the trailer, panniers and start pedalling. Each new experience is challenging my preconceptions and leaving me exciting, anticipating the next adventure. The most difficult thing so far is the challenge of working in a team, sharing and taking into account three sets of ideas. However, it is ultimately a very rewarding experience. What is completely unexpected is the amount of hospitality we have received.

    Tags: EuropeCycle touringFranceCycling

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  • How I Almost Got Struck By Lightning in Vienna

    June 11, 2007

    Sitting on a park in Vienna after a huge thunderstorm, I find a moment of tranquillity and reflection. Earlier on I had walked down into the city to have a wander. As I strolled along in a trance, the thick air made me feel drunk and my skin clammy. Hot and humid throughout the day, dark clouds gathered far on the horizon. The blue sky lifted away, invaded by a heavy blanket of thick white, promising an unpredictable change in the weather but not giving any clues away.

    Tags: WeatherVagabondingViennaAustriaCycle touringTravel

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